Before opening the mouse, unplug it's USB cable to ensure it's not powered, and remove the feet from the base of the mouse. If you lay the feet upside down on your work surface their magnets are useful for holding the loose screws while you are working.
The main body of the mouse is held together with 7 screws in its base. 5 of these are easily visible once you remove the magnetic feet from your mouse, but two are hidden under the label at the nose of the mouse. So you will need to peel this off to access them.
The locations of all 7 screws and highlighted in the image below.
Once the 7 screws have been removed the top and bottom halves of the case can be separated. However you need to be careful when doing this as there is a small circuit board for the thumb buttons which sticks up from the bottom half of the case into the top. Also, there is a thin ribbon cable at the rear of the mouse which connects the two halves.
So when you are separating the two halves, do so gently, and with a direct vertical movement. Keeping the halves relatively parallel until you clear the thumb button circuit board.
Don't worry if the thumb button PCB pops out while you are opening the case. It is connected by another ribbon cable and can easily be placed back into its slot on the base.
The thumb button PCB, and ribbon cable are highlighted below.
Once the top half has cleared the thumb button PCB, the ribbon cable is long enough for it to be placed down on the table next to the bottom half. From here you can see all the components you will need to access.
In order to remove the scroll-wheel you will need to detach the left side of the scroll PCB. So unscrew the three screws shown below and gently lift it up and away from the scroll-wheel to slide its axle out of the encoder. Just be careful with the ribbon cable at its rear, and the wires that connect the two sides of the PCB as these will still be attached.
The grip on the original wheel can now be transferred onto the replacement. The grip is not held with adhesive, and is elastic. So it can easily be removed by peeling up one side and pushing it off the rim of the wheel.
The smaller end of the new scroll-wheels axle can now be slotted into the encoder, and both the PCB and wheel placed back onto their supports.
The Z2 also has a small plastic cover which sits between the scroll-wheel axle and the middle mouse button. Ensure this is in place with its indent inline with the axle. As pictured below.
The 3 screws can now be used to re-secure the PCB, but do not do these up tightly. The PCB needs to be able to move slightly for the force sensor positioned beneath it to function correctly.
Next make sure that the thumb button PCB is slotted correctly into the base before lowering the top half of the case back on.
Finally, check that the two halves of the case are flush around the edge
of the mouse before reattaching them with the 7 screws in the base.