Repairing a switch in the Z

Repairing a switch in the Z

If a buttons tactile "click" is occurring, but no output is being sent there could either be a problem with your mouses configuration, or a hardware problem with the switch itself. Before proceeding with any hardware repairs please check the article below for steps to rule out the possibility of a configuration issue.


If the mouse button does not respond correctly with the "Button Test" profile, then there is a hardware issue. If your mouse is still under warranty submit a ticket to make a warranty claim. However if your mouse is out of warranty, there are three main ways to address this issue: 
  1. Replacement classic-grip PCBs are now available for purchase. These allow you to easily replace most of the switches without any soldering.
    1. Main Buttons, Middle, Fingertip & Trigger Push PCB
    2. Thumb Button PCB
    3. Trigger Pull PCB
  2. It is possible to extend the life of a switch by opening the mouse and performing some maintenance on it. The instructions and images below will show you how this can be done.  
  3. If you have experience with electronics repairs then another option would be to replace the switch on your existing PCB. Below are the details for each switch type and links to compatible replacements.
    1. Left and Right Click:
      Omron D2FC-F-7N - Available here (third switch in this listing, identified as "Color: 2pcs D2FC-F-7N(20M)")
    2. Middle mouse button:
    3. Edge, Fingertip, Trigger & Thumb Buttons:

Maintenance Instructions:

The middle mouse button in particular can be dismantled relatively easily to clean out contaminants which can interfere with its operation. Details for this can be found in the article below:

The other buttons (main left/right click, edge, trigger and thumb) cannot be dismantled so easily. So the maintenance option for them would be to open your mouse and apply some contact cleaner to the switch. Details for this will be covered in the instructions below.

Step 1: Opening your mouse

The main body of the Z is held together with 7 screws in its base. 5 of these are easily visible once you remove the magnetic feet from your mouse, but two are hidden under the label at the nose of the mouse. So you will need to peel this off to access them.

The locations of all 7 screws and highlighted in the image below.



Once the 7 screws have been removed the top and bottom halves of the case can be separated. However you need to be careful when doing this as there is a small circuit board for the thumb buttons which sticks up from the bottom half of the case into the top. Also, there is a thin ribbon cable at the rear of the mouse which connects the two halves.

So when you are separating the two halves, do so gently, and with a direct vertical movement. Keeping the halves relatively parallel until you clear the thumb button circuit board.

Don't worry if the thumb button PCB pops out while you are opening the case. It is connected by another ribbon cable and can easily be placed back into its slot on the base.

The thumb button PCB, and ribbon cable are highlighted below.



Once the top half has cleared the thumb button PCB, the ribbon cable is long enough for it to be placed down on the table next to the bottom half. From here you can see all switches except the two trigger pulls, which are located in the top half of the case.



Step 2: Applying contact cleaner (if not replacing a PCB/switch)

If you're just going to apply some contact cleaner to the switch you can do this now. Simply put a couple drops directly onto the button on top of the switch. Then use something to activate the switch a few times (e.g. head of your screwdriver) to work the contact cleaner into the switch. Let it dry off and wipe any residue from the exterior of the switch.

You can then plug your mouse in and test the switch with it still open using the Button Test profile again. Just by pushing the switch directly this time.

Step 3: Detaching a ribbon cable

Each of the three daughter-boards containing switches are attached to the main-board by ribbon cables. So they can be removed and replaced without any soldering. 

To detach a ribbon cable  first slide the black latches on either side of the ribbon out a few millimeters, as shown below.



With the latch extended, the ribbon cable can now be slid out of the connector. There should be minimal resistance. 

When reconnecting the ribbon cable just reverse the process. Slide the ribbon cable back into the connector (the side with metal contacts should be facing you, not the PCB, as in the first image above). Once the ribbon is inserted, push the black latch back into it's original position to hold the ribbon in place.

Step 4.1: Removing the Scroll PCB for repair/replacement

Before removing the top PCB layer take note of how it is only screwed in loosely, and is able to wiggle in place slightly. This is intentional as this PCB needs to be able to move slightly for the force sensors which are positioned beneath it to work correctly. So when this PCB is screwed back in you'll want to ensure it is still free to move.

Now remove the six screws highlighted below which hold the top PCB layer in place.


With the screws removed the two sections of the PCB can be lifted out of the mouse along with the scroll-wheel, which can then be slid out of the encoder and put to the side.

Step 4.2: Removing the Thumb Button PCB for repair/replacement

The Thumb Button PCB simple sits in a slot in the base of the mouse. So after it's ribbon cable has been disconnected it can be removed and replaced without any extra steps.

Step 4.3: Removing the Trigger Pull PCB for repair/replacement

If you need to repair or replace one of the trigger pull switches details on dismantling the top half of the case can be found in the following article:
Accessing the Trigger Pull switches for repair or replacement


Step 5: Reassembly

If you did not remove the top PCB layer skip to the 5th step.
  1. Slide the small side of the scroll-wheels axle into the encoder.
  2. Lower the top PCB layer and scroll-wheel back into position. The pegs sticking out of the base will slot into the holes in the PCB; so you can't go too wrong here.
  3. Slot the ribbon cable back into the socket at the rear of the PCB (Solid Blue end facing down). Once it is in place push the black latches on either side of it closed.
  4. Start screwing the top PCB layer to the base (3 screws on each side). Only do these up very loosely, as the PCB needs to be able to move for the force sensors to operate properly. Fully tightening the screws can cause them to go to 100% as soon as your press a button.
  5. Check that the thumb button PCB is sitting it its slot in the base.
  6. Lower the top half of the case back on, making sure that it sits flush along all edges.
  7. Loosely use two screws in opposite corners of the base of the mouse to hold the case together.
  8. Quickly check the force levels of all 5 force enabled buttons. If they are hitting 30%+ even when you press gently you may want to open your mouse again to adjust the screws on the top PCB. If this is required also check the circular white plastic spacers which sit directly beneath the two main mouse button switches. The two force sensors sit beneath these so give them a bit of a prod to make sure they have some movement to them as well.
  9. When you're happy with your force readings add the remaining 5 screws to the base of your mouse. Only tightening them until they start to catch.


    • Related Articles

    • Repairing the Zs Middle Mouse Button

      If your middle mouse buttons tactile "click" is occurring, but no output is being sent there could either be a problem with your mouses configuration, or a hardware problem with the switch itself. Before proceeding with any hardware repairs please ...

    • Z's joystick capabilities are interfering with my other Joystick; or adversely effecting controls in specific games.

      The joystick functions in our classic grip mice can be disabled temporarily within Device Manager. Which can be accessed via control panel, or by right clicking the Start Menu. Within device manager expand the "Human Interface Devices" section, then ...

    • One of the buttons on my Z/Tracer is not working.

      If there is no obvious physical fault with the button (e.g. no audible "click" when you press it), it is possible that this is just a configuration issue. To test if this could be the case import the attached profile into the Swiftpoint X1 Control ...

    • Repairing the Zs Scroll-Wheel Encoder

      If your Z/Tracer/Creators scroll-wheel is starting to register scrolls in the opposite direction when scrolling rapidly in one direction (e.g. repeatedly scrolling up while already at the top of a page causes frequent scrolls down the page). Then ...

    • Is there a wireless version?

      We're not working on it now, but a wireless mouse in our Classic-grip range is something we investigated while developing the original Z. Unfortunately it wasn't feasible at the time, but we hope to revisit the idea in the future.